Egypt (Winter 2005-2006)

It’s hard to believe I’m back so soon. I don’t think I’ve ever done so much in so little time. Actually, my trip was almost over before it started. There was a big snowstorm in Japan right before I left which closed down all the highways in the area. Of course my original plan to take the overnight bus to Osaka was canceled along with my backup plan for the morning bus. On to plan C which involved a total of 3 trains throughout the day. The second one passed through the mountains and halfway through stopped ‘cause of the deep snow. We stopped for what seemed like forever and I was just waiting for the train to backup and end my trip for good. Thankfully it pushed through and that was the last of my travel worries.

I spent Christmas Eve and day in Singapore which, looking back, is completely overshadowed by Egypt. It was a warm day, and although there were lights and decorations, it sure didn’t feel like Christmas. Thankfully the city wasn’t closed down so I spent the day at the Botanical Gardens and exploring Chinatown and Little India. Everything just seemed a little too clean and organized. I was excited to be on my way.

My time in Egypt was a little overwhelming. There was so much I wanted to see and do and somehow I managed to squeeze most everything in which I’m really happy about. I was also lucky enough to meet another traveler early on, Jeremy from Australia, so we ended up traveling quite a bit together. It all started in Cairo. I’ve never seen a more unorganized, dusty, run down capital city. Arriving in the morning, I could hardly see the city through the haze and pollution. They say a day in Cairo is like smoking a pack of cigarettes and it sure felt like it. I think I’m still coughing up black gunk. I spent the first day getting a teacher’s id card (which saved 50% on all tickets) and exploring Coptic (Christian) Cairo. Lots of old churches, several of which claimed to have housed the Holy Family for a short while. Who knows if it’s true but it was cool to think about while looking around.

The second day was a trip to Giza and the pyramids. I initially got sidetracked by some donkey/camel guide who claimed the main gates were closed, but after that hassle I finally arrived. The pyramids were massive, making the Sphinx look almost miniature in comparison. My impression all along was that the pyramids are in the middle of the desert. Actually they’re just on the edge of the city. Look one way and it’s desert forever, look the other and you see Cairo suburbs. I spent the whole day walking around. It was possible to go into the pyramid of Chephren which was fun. It wasn’t easy though- definitely not for the claustrophobic, obese, or weak in the knees. Considering how cool it was outside, the inside was like a sauna. In the end it’s a big chamber with an empty sarcophagus. I explored some more. I had heard all kinds of scams regarding the camel rides so was determined not to bother (but still got hassled everywhere I went). In the end I got to talking with one guy who said he’d take me for 10 pounds (about $2). I said yeah right, but he seemed like a genuinely nice guy so in the end I went. We walked and ran around for about an hour or two and in the end it was good fun and no scam so I tipped him 100% (yeah, how generous huh?). One other cool thing was all the ruins surrounding the pyramids. They’re not fenced in or anything so I spent some time poking around pretending to be Indiana Jones.

That night I met Jeremy and the next day we hired a taxi to go out to more remote pyramids called Saqqara and Dahshur. These were also some of the oldest pyramids and we spent the day exploring and appreciating the total lack of tourists. We also had a chance to go into another pyramid (which smelled of bat urine). It was great relaxed day and we got dropped off in a market in Islamic Cairo and spent a few hours wandering around lost and heading back into the city.

From here we took an overnight train (12 hours) south to Aswan. It’s down near Sudan and there was definitely a more African feel to the city. We took a boat over to a couple islands in the Nile and on one called Elephantine Island there was a whole Nubian village we ended up exploring. The people were very friendly and one family invited us in for tea and a chat. They didn’t speak much English though so it was a pretty funny conversation. The next day we signed up for a southern tour which included the temple of Abu Simbel, the Aswan dam, and the island of Philae. I never thought I’d make it all the way to Abu Simbel but so glad I did. Everyone knows these giant statues from pictures. When the dam was built the whole temple was moved piece by piece to higher ground. It almost didn’t feel real. Huge statues and the detail inside the temple was amazing. One thing I didn’t realize with hieroglyphics was that they are everywhere. In all the temples and tombs I visited, the hieroglyphics covered practically everything. The Aswan dam was not so impressive, but the the Temple of Isis on Philae was pretty cool. That evening, we had also signed up to join a sailboat trip down the Nile for 2 days. I thought there was a good chance of being scammed (the captain seemed a bit shady) but it all worked out ok.

We spent the next 2 days sailing down the Nile in a traditional sailboat with 8 others. The boat was basically a platform with a big mattress and a giant sail above. At night they covered the sides and top with some canvas (it was much colder than I had expected). Thankfully the rest of the people were a nice bunch (Australian, Mexican, American, English, Japanese) and we celebrated New Years on the riverbank around a campfire. Although the food didn’t vary much, it was a nice mix of mostly veggies, pita bread and one night, camel meat (which tasted just like beef). In the end we arrived in the town of Kom Ombo and took a bus up to the temple at Edfu and then Luxor.

Decided to join a tour to the West bank the following day which worked out well. There’s a lot to see and the private bus made things much easier. Plus our guide Alladin was a character. We saw the Valley of the Kings, Hatshepsut’s temple, Valley of the Queens and the Colossi of Memnon. Both valleys were full of ancient tombs that had great carvings and painting along the walls. It was amazing to see the amount of color that was still there after 2,000+ years. Hatshepsut’s temple had been reconstructed so it looked out of place. The setting below the sheer mountainside was pretty impressive though. I made a mental note of the trail going up above everything. Arriving back in Luxor in the afternoon, there was still time to check out Karnak temple for a couple hours. It was swarming with people, but for good reason. The temple grounds were massive and very impressive. Lots of columns, statues, obelisk and you’d really need a good day to see everything. Heading back into the city, Luxor temple was all lit up and open for night visits. It was a nice change to see it at night actually.

Jeremy headed in another direction that night so I was back on my own time schedule the following day. I decided to rent a bike and go explore the West bank again, this time solo. First, I spent a couple hours at the temple of Medinet Habu which was still in great condition and it was nice to see things at my own pace. I even climbed around the ancient surrounding walls until I was yelled at by a guard. After that I went to the Tomb of the Nobles. The best part was the tomb of Ramose. Inside was a big chamber with lots of columns. The inner shrine was gated off but in one corner of the main room was a cave going down and not blocked off. I was all alone, had my flashlight, so headed down into the darkness. It kept going down and down until finally reaching a small room with more pillars. In the very back was another small chamber you could climb up into which I did and as I looked around I noticed to the left on the rubble was a skull and a mummified face attached. Really felt like an explorer for a second there. It was also pretty freaky ‘cause I could hear whispers from (the guard?) above. Well, I finally made my way back up covered in dirt only to find the guard waiting for me at the entrance. I though, oh great I’m in big trouble now. As I exit all he says with a grin on his face is “Good?”. Egypt’s a funny place. Finally, I headed back to the temple of Hatshepsut and was determined to hike the small mountain above. Great view from above of the temple below, other ruins, and the Nile and farm land in the distance.

Finally I headed back to Cairo. Spent the first day at the Museum which was completely packed full of statues, sarcophaguses, jewelry, and tour groups. Although the setup wasn’t my favorite it was a great display, especially all of King Tut’s stuff and also the Mummy Room which had about 12 mummies inside (including Rameses II, Seti I and Merneptah). My final day was spent exploring Islamic Cairo on foot. Lots of getting lost in markets and side streets and also checking out some of the famous mosques in the area. First, I headed to the mosque of Ibn Tulun which is over 1,000 years old. Huge open area inside and a unique winding staircase up the minaret which had great views of the city from above. Next, I finally made it to the Citadel which is like an old castle area built above the city. Inside is the very famous Mohammed Ali mosque (no, not the boxer) which was amazing from within. It was basically domes within domes, each one with different colors and patterns and highlighted from below by rings of lamps. I didn’t bother with the police or military museums in the Citadel and instead walked north to Khan El-Khalili market, passing through the old gates of Bab Zwayla. In the market I wandered around until finally heading back to the direction of central Cairo and my hotel.

I know it seems long-winded, but that’s really the short version of my trip. There was just too much to see and do, not enough time. Looking back, I’d have to say Egypt is a land of big contrasts. It seems like things are either being renovated or in complete disarray. It’s dirty and buildings are falling apart. At the same time they’re being repaired and there’s street cleaners everywhere, it just seems to be a battle being lost. I get the feeling it’s always been like this. The traffic is insane as well. There are no lanes, or if so they’re completely ignored. Crossing the road feels more like a mission or a game of Frogger. Even when there are pedestrian crossing lights, they flash green at all the wrong times. Forget about traffic lights. I don’t remember seeing any in the city, and for a reason…nobody would use them. The most you get is a traffic cop blowing a whistle for people to stop. It’s also strange to see horse drawn carts on the same major roads as cars. That and all the other animals lining the streets of even downtown Cairo- donkeys, cows, sheep, chicken, ducks and an endless supply of cats. Considering the environment, the Egyptian people are pretty remarkable. Of course there are many out to make a buck, especially from rich, clueless tourists. The hassle can be unbearable. It seemed like there was someone asking for money for any little thing (and most times for nothing). They weren’t begging, they just expected something for anything. You’d get people showing you some hieroglyphic, or inviting you to cross a barrier, or pointing in the right direction only to be asked for money (baksheesh). I never felt in danger though. Of course there are police everywhere, but the people weren’t threatening. I feel like everyone had a great sense of humor just waiting to come out. You could see this even in the eyes and smirks of little kids. I soon came to realize that along with all the hassle comes some genuine curiosity and kindness, which would come out when you least expected it. The contrast was striking.